“One of the great swell events in my history of shooting surfing (for) over 49 years,” says Tim Bonython, not mincing words. “This is probably one of the top five swell events I’ve got to document.” ...
“You can tell when it’s a big one when the lines march in from the outer ledge,” Benjamin “Sancho” Sanchis told SURFER after his heroic, albeit cataclysmic, ride at Jaws on December 22, 2024. Fate ...
I remember the first neurologist I saw after my concussion,” Albee Layer said. “I told him, I’ve had many concussions surfing, and this one’s by far the worst. It happens in big waves. He’s like, ...
Most days, 44-year-old Brazilian Michaela Fregonese juggles the same responsibilities as any parent: running her small travel agency, shuttling her son to and from soccer practice, and squeezing in a ...
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